Mahalo O’hau

So ending my surfing career…

Not really, I did book a private 2 hour lesson that turned out to be one hour where the guy caught a few waves while I was scared to stand up & fall.  I’d been spocking out where I was going to go the whole trip, debating whether I should surf since I’m here alone.  Decided to go for it with an instructor just in case.

This has been a great boot camp trip for me.  I’ve been going to the morning workouts every day after my run.  The whole week it’s been just me at the workouts, the cute girl that does the classes & I became Hawaii friends.  It was like morning workout/therapy with a personal trainer.

So when I splurged on the surf instructor I expected ???  One thing, I can paddle which is supposed to be the hardest part.  The hardest part for me is standing up.  Afternoon is not my best time, I should have booked morning.  I got a new Garmin watch that shows your “battery level” throughout the day.  My battery level is a steady 80+ in the mornings with a cliff diving down the rest of the day.  By 3pm it’s nap time where I should be sipping a smoothie not scheduling a surf lesson.

I’m making excuses, really though those reefs scared me & I should have just gone straight out to the Waikiki part with the sand bottom.  Paddling out, the reefs caught my leash and skag.  All I could think of was hopping up to have my leash catch on one while I did a face plant into a rock.  That wasn’t a far fetched fear, it was that shallow.  I did catch quite a few waves, enough to make me feel OK out there when I go to Mexico in March.

It’s been a few years…  I went out one afternoon in Mexico and fell forward, breaking my ribs.  It didn’t matter, I ended up with a nasty bout of tourista that kept me out of the water the rest of the trip.  Thought I was healed up a few months later, then broke my ribs again on the second day in Costa Rica.  I couldn’t lift up the board after that, it was horrible.  When I got back from that second trip I did a bone density test and found out I had Osteopenia, my bones break easily 🙁  I blame Diet Cokes and stopped drinking them after that.

My goal was to not get hurt again and catch a few waves to see if I should ever really surf again or if my body says “no.”  I took the first wave of the set, got to my knees (which I usually don’t do, my MO is to get right to my feet), and rode it to get the feel of the waves.  When I paddled back out I was paddling through the remainder of that set.  Most of them were easy waves to push through, there were a few I had to do turtle rolls through.  That’s when I was done, one of the turtle rolls I hit my head lightly on a rock.  The second turtle roll I scraped my knee on a reef and was bleeding.  The Gods were telling me to get out of the water.  They were also telling me that my knee hop ups were a better choice that splitting my head open in a fall.

I should explain a turtle roll; You paddle until you know you can’t get over the wave, let it break, then flip yourself & the board into the wave holding onto the board so no one behind you gets nailed.  Then get back on the board for some more punishment if the set isn’t over with.

Once I showered I found a few other scrapes I missed…

Perfect timing for shower/dinner and my last sunset photo while I’m here, only my film card was still in my computer.  Was also limited with the rain on where I could even take a picture.

I have a few hours before the shuttle to the airport picks me up, see if I can get a few shots today.  This has been more about getting back in shape and recovering from my back stuff than anything else.  Think I’m ready for the holidays now, everyone gets a Ukulele!!

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The crowded Waikiki lineup

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